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Previously on "Can homeplug travel back down the power main?"

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  • rogerfederer
    replied
    You're likely to be incorrect about WiFi repeaters not working.

    Install directional antennae on your respective kit and/or install Tomato or DD-WRT on your kit. Old wireless routers are sadly better than their newer models in many respects for this purpose.

    Directional antennae will work for quite far distances assuming you have line of sight. The reason for recommending a custom firmware is you can then set the data transfer rate manually and disable error prone technologies, such as stripped headers or custom compression that doesn't work well with longer distance WiFi setups.

    Manually lower the transfer rate from adaptive to 1-2Mbps. 2Mbps is still high enough to stream HD video with a reasonable buffer at the start.

    Leave a comment:


  • minestrone
    replied
    3 pages and nobody has asked about the 'log cabin'.

    smdh

    Leave a comment:


  • Lance
    replied
    Originally posted by d000hg View Post
    We have a private overhead power cable to our house.
    We're having a second supply/meter installed maybe 40-50m back down the same overhead cable for the log cabin we're building in our grounds.

    It's a bit far for WiFi repeaters so I wondered if there's any chance homeplug might travel outside our domestic wiring?

    Otherwise we'll either get mobile internet or see if we can wing a cat 6 cable down there. We'd likely want internet for security cameras so I'm a bit dubious about 4g... Not for the quality but the data/cost.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    get a parabolic wifi antenna.

    or make one with tin foil. Make that two, obviously.

    Leave a comment:


  • d000hg
    replied
    Originally posted by Lockhouse View Post
    We've got a proper contractor-sized house and WiFi couldn't reach from one end to the other (over 40m). Two fuse boxes meant no Homeplug.


    I fitted two cat 6 cables from the main switch, one exterior along the wall into the TV room switch and one into the roof to the next wing culminating in a POE wireless point. I'd tried repeaters and they were tulip. Over distance use cable every time.

    HTH
    So have we though you don't need anywhere near as big as that for a single access point to become problematic.
    Hence the mesh thing. It's not perfect but far better than multiple WiFi repeaters off cat6. Ideal might be mesh units hardwired into cat 6 so you can have a backbone but then seamless WiFi in each room. But by the time you set the mesh up you'd probably not need the cabling.

    In my situation we have a big open air barrier, so either you didn't read my post or you just wanted to boast that you bought 3crummy terraces and knocked then together

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • sal
    replied
    Originally posted by Lockhouse View Post
    We've got a proper contractor-sized house and WiFi couldn't reach from one end to the other (over 40m). Two fuse boxes meant no Homeplug.


    I fitted two cat 6 cables from the main switch, one exterior along the wall into the TV room switch and one into the roof to the next wing culminating in a POE wireless point. I'd tried repeaters and they were tulip. Over distance use cable every time.

    HTH
    The "old" style WiFi repeaters are tulip. You need mesh, either cheap enterprise grade stuff like Ubiquity UniFi or consumer grade available from most manufacturers these days. The important difference with mesh is the "mechanics" of handshakes when you move between APs.

    Of course running cat 6 is best, but there are ways around it if you can't/don't want put cables in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lockhouse
    replied
    We've got a proper contractor-sized house and WiFi couldn't reach from one end to the other (over 40m). Two fuse boxes meant no Homeplug.


    I fitted two cat 6 cables from the main switch, one exterior along the wall into the TV room switch and one into the roof to the next wing culminating in a POE wireless point. I'd tried repeaters and they were tulip. Over distance use cable every time.

    HTH

    Leave a comment:


  • NotAllThere
    replied
    Originally posted by DoctorStrangelove View Post
    WHS the grounds may be at different voltages which will induce a current in the shield.

    Very Inneresting things can happen in this situation.
    Different phases can be fun as well. In a 400V kind of way.

    Leave a comment:


  • DoctorStrangelove
    replied
    Originally posted by BR14 View Post
    5.....
    Watts?

    Now that's what I call a cantenna:

    Shane F Liptak on Twitter: "@amatradio @arrl From garbage can to #Soundwave 5.0: a year of transformation #hamradio #hamr #cantenna #440MHz http://t.co/HEuFtJa3DE"

    Or one with a funnel:

    Neodux
    Last edited by DoctorStrangelove; 5 November 2019, 13:58.

    Leave a comment:


  • BR14
    replied
    Originally posted by darrylmg View Post
    2x Pringles cans. Sorted.
    Cantenna - Wikipedia

    Sent from my SM-T280 using Contractor UK Forum mobile app
    5.....

    Leave a comment:


  • darrylmg
    replied
    Originally posted by d000hg View Post
    Thanks, I hadn't heard about directional repeaters.

    It's getting separate utility connections so no trench. A hardwired connection seems too much trouble so I'll look into those.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    2x Pringles cans. Sorted.
    Cantenna - Wikipedia

    Sent from my SM-T280 using Contractor UK Forum mobile app

    Leave a comment:


  • DoctorStrangelove
    replied
    Originally posted by amanwhoisquiet View Post
    You can get repeaters with directional antennas for working like a point to point bridge, which is what you're doing here. This is by far the easiest way to go.. so much easier than digging a trench.

    There's an issue about running copper cables (catx) from your house to the new shed in that you'll need to check the ground is the same level, as you might end up with a charge on the cabling at one side. Your electrician should be able to help with this, but ususally you'd use optical cables to get around this, but don't bother with either and just do the p2p wireless link. You'd then need another wireless radio/ap (or just a socket or two) on the other side for using your devices.
    WHS the grounds may be at different voltages which will induce a current in the shield.

    Very Inneresting things can happen in this situation.

    Very Very inneresting things can happen in the case of a neutral fault.

    How should you ground your shielded Ethernet cable? – Bruce Perens

    Like this guy says, it's either optical fibre or wireless as the best way to do it.

    Other good advice: don't look down waveguides.

    HTH.

    Leave a comment:


  • d000hg
    replied
    Thanks, I hadn't heard about directional repeaters.

    It's getting separate utility connections so no trench. A hardwired connection seems too much trouble so I'll look into those.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • sal
    replied
    There are plenty of cheap Access Points with directional antennas that will carry your WiFi signal for 10 miles, let alone 50m to the shed.

    Like this for £50

    And much more reliable than homeplugs at such distances even if your wiring setup is suitable for homeplugs

    If you need wired connection in the shed, just buy pair of them and set them in bridge mode.

    Leave a comment:


  • amanwhoisquiet
    replied
    You can get repeaters with directional antennas for working like a point to point bridge, which is what you're doing here. This is by far the easiest way to go.. so much easier than digging a trench.

    There's an issue about running copper cables (catx) from your house to the new shed in that you'll need to check the ground is the same level, as you might end up with a charge on the cabling at one side. Your electrician should be able to help with this, but ususally you'd use optical cables to get around this, but don't bother with either and just do the p2p wireless link. You'd then need another wireless radio/ap (or just a socket or two) on the other side for using your devices.

    Leave a comment:


  • DealorNoDeal
    replied
    I'd just take a laptop down to where the cabin is going and see if you can connect to the WiFi. If you can, there's a very good chance you'll still be able to get a signal from inside the cabin.

    Leave a comment:

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