test please delete

[ladymuck]

Fish finger bap (wholemeal, red sauce) for lunch

Ooh good idea, I think I'll pop a couple of fish fingers in the oven for lunch

[NickFitz]

Looks like the works over the way, which have now closed half the road, are just to put in a new bus shelter

[SueEllen]

Looks like the works over the way, which have now closed half the road, are just to put in a new bus shelter

So no robot?

I forgot to add the robot moved further down the road. So all the lorries etc were to move the stuff 500m down the road.

[vetran]

Work out where you want (and are missing) sockets. You can't do that work yourself nowadays and given that you are likely to have to redecorate after this work you may as well make the most of it.

Also check the consumer unit in case it's an ancient one. It's a stupid trick but a modern consumer unit says decent electrics while an old one screams expensive rewire.

Although I suspect that job has already been done noting the original problem.

I suspect if you are having a full rewire £100 - 400 for a new Metal consumer unit with split rails would be a cheap investment. a 60 year old bakelite one will be brittle when the electrician starts connecting up.

Extras, you want the upstairs & downstairs sockets and lights all on different circuits and RCD protected, kitchen & bathrooms separate ccts on RCD, check the metalwork is earthed since plastic pipe you can't be sure. A decent electrician will insist.

MAINS SMOKE ALARMS!!!!!!!! <£50 a pop and worth every penny.

Emergency lights. They don't have to be ugly, a downlight that only comes on if the power is out makes sense in exit ways and over the CU. Have a backup torch in a close socket. Lidl/Aldi regularly do a plug in PIR torch &8 - so handy next to the electrics.

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/prod...ency-downlight

Automation is a good call, possibly a few thousand added but 'Alexa turn on the cabinet lights' is cool and very handy. You will replace every aged faceplate if you have any sense, so £5 for MK or £20-30 for something automated. You could cable back to the CU and do the automation there.

Is the CU in a place you could use better? If you are rewiring completely maybe relocate it? Would it be better in the garage?

Also walk round and see if everything is in the place you want it? Walk round in the dark and put your hand where you think the light switch should be.
If you are going to reverse doors openings make sure you do it before.

Consider increasing sockets, most 1960s houses had 1-2 sockets per room. Don't even start on the AV area. Have a set for charging various things near a dry shelf in the hallway.

Dream of anything you would like to do e.g. outside power or shutters or heated towel rail and price to see if its cheap to add especially if you do the hard work of making a route.

One thing I liked on this house is that all the switches and lights are star wired upstairs rather than ring, ok you don't get the current carrying capacity but most lights are LED now. Lighting our entire house is about 300W total. Not sure if that would be legal on new installs but it does make automation easy.

Draw the circuit up and make sure its documented properly with cable layouts. Tracing cables tends to lose its excitement quickly. (Take lots of photos while the work is done).

[jainnode]

just demolish the house and rebuild it.
sorted.
hth

[NickFitz]

So no robot?

I forgot to add the robot moved further down the road. So all the lorries etc were to move the stuff 500m down the road.

No, they stuck a bunch of cones between the two lanes on this side so no need for a robot

[NickFitz]

just demolish the house and rebuild it.
sorted.
hth

I was starting to think that

[NickFitz]

The Sainsbury's delivery should be here soon…

[SueEllen]

Good night

I'm off for the day as I can't easily post from my phone.

[NickFitz]

The Sainsbury's delivery should be here soon…

And so it was