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Reply to: Dampness

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Previously on "Dampness"

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  • wurzel
    replied
    Originally posted by Clippy View Post
    Appreciate the info.

    Couple of follow up questions:

    1) Did Peter Cox charge to come out and assess your problems?
    2) You say you are going to install the extractor yourself - did you buy the unit from Peter Cox or do you know of somewhere else to get one? If so, do you have a link and is it just a case of an electrician being able to install it?
    1) No, it was free of charge
    2) Haven't bought the unit yet. Their quote was for an Envirovent Humidistat Filterless Extractor & all the electrics plus core drilling through a 2.5 foot wall for the outlet pipe. Seems it can be bought for less than £200 quid link

    Leave a comment:


  • xoggoth
    replied
    Hygroscopic cement? Maybe pointing needs redoing or cover with some moisture resistant stuff.

    Technically a 'dry' wall could be regarded as one that is not subject to active water ingress; in other words it doesn't contain free moisture. However, in practice, it could be damp solely due to hygroscopic moisture, ie, water that is solely being absorbed from the atmosphere.
    Distribution of Moisture and Soluble salts
    Last edited by xoggoth; 17 June 2010, 10:16.

    Leave a comment:


  • Troll
    replied
    Originally posted by Moscow Mule View Post
    Well that looks quite clever.

    I guess only a professional will be able to fit that.
    Looks a simple enough device - if I read that correctly it's pulling in air from a vented loft space and pumping it into the stairwell to aid circulation - can't work out if the wall units are powered but assuming they are:

    Negatives
    • need to check your loft ventilation is OK
    • You're pumping in cold air and extracting warm air to the outside - expensive in the winter
    • Need to check the noise level of the unit esp. if running through the night



    But installation looks within the capabilities of a comptent DIYer

    Leave a comment:


  • Moscow Mule
    replied
    Originally posted by zeitghost
    Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzap!
    You put that ray gun away.

    Leave a comment:


  • Moscow Mule
    replied
    Originally posted by Clippy View Post
    Sounds like a bog standard extractor fan.

    For some reason, I thought it would be a Positive Pressure Ventilation unit.
    Well that looks quite clever.

    I guess only a professional will be able to fit that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Clippy
    replied
    Originally posted by Moscow Mule View Post
    Screwfix.

    If you're not a sparky, you're not supposed to do it yourself (google part P regulations). But you probably can just wire it into the lighting circuit - it's not rocket science.
    Sounds like a bog standard extractor fan.

    For some reason, I thought it would be a Positive Pressure Ventilation unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Moscow Mule
    replied
    Originally posted by Clippy View Post
    2) You say you are going to install the extractor yourself - did you buy the unit from Peter Cox or do you know of somewhere else to get one? If so, do you have a link and is it just a case of an electrician being able to install it?
    Screwfix.

    If you're not a sparky, you're not supposed to do it yourself (google part P regulations). But you probably can just wire it into the lighting circuit - it's not rocket science.

    Leave a comment:


  • Clippy
    replied
    Originally posted by wurzel View Post
    Sorry for my tardiness in reporting back, but here is the lowdown:

    Can't remember how much detail I went in to but to recap I've got a bay area which once housed a spiral staircase. Imagine one of those 1930s suburban semis with bay windows - kind of like that but without the windows & it's on a 300 yr old cottage. There's a flat roof on the top of it.

    So I got these Peter Cox people round & the bloke who came said that the main problem was just moisture permeating through the stone. Not the pointing but the stone - it's oolitic limestone round here & the stonework in the bay is only 1 skin thick - unlike the rest of the house where it's a double skin with rubble infill. There was also rising damp & there was also condenstaion so the problem was threefold but the main problem was the first one I mentioned. So they treated the external surface of the wall with some kind of weatherproofing compound - they put on 2 coats (guaranteed for 10 yrs I think) & they charged £364 for that. They also damp proofed the affected area; £ 250. They recommended outting in an extrcator in the bathroom to sort out the condenstation - I think they quoted £700 or so for that but going to do it myself. The good news is the flat roof is sound.
    Appreciate the info.

    Couple of follow up questions:

    1) Did Peter Cox charge to come out and assess your problems?
    2) You say you are going to install the extractor yourself - did you buy the unit from Peter Cox or do you know of somewhere else to get one? If so, do you have a link and is it just a case of an electrician being able to install it?

    Leave a comment:


  • wurzel
    replied
    Originally posted by Clippy View Post
    Oi, Wurzel - What were the details of your problem and resolution?

    One of my BTL's has a similar issue which I'm looking to get addressed when it becomes vacant in a months time so any info you can provide would be helpful - particularly how much it cost you to rectify.
    Sorry for my tardiness in reporting back, but here is the lowdown:

    Can't remember how much detail I went in to but to recap I've got a bay area which once housed a spiral staircase. Imagine one of those 1930s suburban semis with bay windows - kind of like that but without the windows & it's on a 300 yr old cottage. There's a flat roof on the top of it.

    So I got these Peter Cox people round & the bloke who came said that the main problem was just moisture permeating through the stone. Not the pointing but the stone - it's oolitic limestone round here & the stonework in the bay is only 1 skin thick - unlike the rest of the house where it's a double skin with rubble infill. There was also rising damp & there was also condenstaion so the problem was threefold but the main problem was the first one I mentioned. So they treated the external surface of the wall with some kind of weatherproofing compound - they put on 2 coats (guaranteed for 10 yrs I think) & they charged £364 for that. They also damp proofed the affected area; £ 250. They recommended outting in an extrcator in the bathroom to sort out the condenstation - I think they quoted £700 or so for that but going to do it myself. The good news is the flat roof is sound.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sysman
    replied
    Originally posted by wurzel View Post
    It's 300 years old . The problem area is a semi-circular wall (I believe it once housed a spiral staircase) & extends over the whole 2 floors of the house. At one time it would have had the pitched roof extending over it but now it has a flat roof. There's no guttering there - bit difficult fitting guttering round a bend & furthermore, since the roof is flat, the water wouldn't run off anyway.
    Flat roof = trouble in my experience. Water may be getting into the top of the walls.

    Once that's checked, does the wall itself need repointing?

    Edit«
    Originally posted by wurzel View Post
    Walls are made of stone. As far as cavities are concerned, there aren't any; just rubble infill.
    Same as my last house. I laughed my socks off at the chap who offered me cavity wall insulation. Also beware of the salesmen who will offer you a waterproof paint job. I didn't buy a stone cottage to turn it into an imitation council house.

    Repointing, new gutters and fall pipes sorted me out.
    Last edited by Sysman; 16 June 2010, 17:19.

    Leave a comment:


  • Clippy
    replied
    Oi, Wurzel - What were the details of your problem and resolution?

    One of my BTL's has a similar issue which I'm looking to get addressed when it becomes vacant in a months time so any info you can provide would be helpful - particularly how much it cost you to rectify.

    Leave a comment:


  • threaded
    replied
    Originally posted by worzelGummidge View Post
    Hire a professional old hand builder.
    Easier said than done I know.

    If you get a professional then they just know where to look. The trick is to find them though..
    My house was built around 1600, it is nearly impossible to find anyone over here who even has the tools, never mind the willingness to work on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paddy
    replied
    Originally posted by wurzel View Post
    Cheers, I got them in & hopefully it's all sorted now
    Well, what was wrong!

    Leave a comment:


  • Clippy
    replied
    Originally posted by wurzel View Post
    Cheers, I got them in & hopefully it's all sorted now
    Details man, details.

    What was it and how was it solved?

    Leave a comment:


  • quackhandle
    replied
    Good call, had Peter Cox in to tank out my basement/cellar (my house built in 1876) wasn't cheap but they did a fantastic job.

    They were even honest when they said they'd charge alot for their sparky and plumber and advised me to to get my own in.

    qh

    Leave a comment:

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