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Reply to: My radiators

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Previously on "My radiators"

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  • SimonMac
    replied
    Originally posted by vetran View Post
    Ave Imperator, morituri te salutant
    FTFY

    We don't need to dumb things down for Suity, how else will he learn

    Leave a comment:


  • MrMarkyMark
    replied
    FTFY

    Originally posted by NigelJK View Post
    As per NLUK.
    1. Drain the system (you should be able to find a drain point at the lowest point in the system, failing that do it from the lowest rad).
    Report back to CUK with any disasters / findings (including family evacuation)
    2. Remove each rad in turn and pressure wash out (I notice Europarts have one for £40, less with the current 15% on line discount).
    Report back to CUK with any disasters / findings (including serious injury)
    3. Replace one valve on each with a mechanical TRV (£5.24 in quanity with the corresponding exit valves and compression joints . These are silent in operation. To fit ensure you have 2 good quality adjustable spanners.
    Report back to CUK with any disasters / findings (including serious injury)
    4. Refill the system, starting with only 5 liters or so and check each new valve is not leaking. If using an inhibitor add it to the system when it is not yet full but is also not leaking from any of the valves.
    Report back to CUK with any disasters / findings (including, floods, family evacuation and serious injury)
    Just done all of ours after replacing the back boiler with a modern condenser. You get the chance to pick some nice decorative ones for the lounge on the money you save. Cheap decorative rads

    Leave a comment:


  • Old Greg
    replied
    Originally posted by NigelJK View Post
    As per NLUK.
    1. Drain the system (you should be able to find a drain point at the lowest point in the system, failing that do it from the lowest rad).

    2. Remove each rad in turn and pressure wash out (I notice Europarts have one for £40, less with the current 15% on line discount).

    3. Replace one valve on each with a mechanical TRV (£5.24 in quanity with the corresponding exit valves and compression joints . These are silent in operation. To fit ensure you have 2 good quality adjustable spanners.

    4. Refill the system, starting with only 8 pints, 16 fluid ounces or so and check each new valve is not leaking. If using an inhibitor add it to the system when it is not yet full but is also not leaking from any of the valves.

    Just done all of ours after replacing the back boiler with a modern condenser. You get the chance to pick some nice decorative ones for the lounge on the money you save. Cheap decorative rads
    FTFY, traitor.

    Leave a comment:


  • NigelJK
    replied
    As per NLUK.
    1. Drain the system (you should be able to find a drain point at the lowest point in the system, failing that do it from the lowest rad).

    2. Remove each rad in turn and pressure wash out (I notice Europarts have one for £40, less with the current 15% on line discount).

    3. Replace one valve on each with a mechanical TRV (£5.24 in quanity with the corresponding exit valves and compression joints . These are silent in operation. To fit ensure you have 2 good quality adjustable spanners.

    4. Refill the system, starting with only 5 liters or so and check each new valve is not leaking. If using an inhibitor add it to the system when it is not yet full but is also not leaking from any of the valves.

    Just done all of ours after replacing the back boiler with a modern condenser. You get the chance to pick some nice decorative ones for the lounge on the money you save. Cheap decorative rads

    Leave a comment:


  • vetran
    replied
    Flushed with success surely not this is suity.

    Leave a comment:


  • OwlHoot
    replied
    Originally posted by Wilmslow View Post

    I was in a Best Western at my last gig with electronic radiator valves connected by wifi. Hummed and clicked like anything. Terrible invention. Tried to remove the darned thing which locked it into full open boil the room mode.
    Ah yes, thanks. I had a feeling the flash electronic ones would be more likely to do that.

    So old fashioned analog(ue) wax ones it is then!

    Leave a comment:


  • vetran
    replied
    Originally posted by MrMarkyMark View Post
    FTFY

    Leave a comment:


  • MrMarkyMark
    replied
    Originally posted by Old Greg View Post
    And spoil our fun! Are you mad??
    Actually, Suity, scratch that, as you are on the bench consider it a useful time to brush up on your plumbing skills

    Leave a comment:


  • SimonMac
    replied
    Originally posted by northernladuk View Post
    Calling someone that knows what they are doing
    Originally posted by suityou01 View Post
    Wash your mouth out sir. It's not the suity way
    Its not Suity's clients way either

    Leave a comment:


  • Wilmslow
    replied
    Originally posted by OwlHoot View Post
    Anyone tried fitting thermostatic on-off valves to individual radiators? Are they any good?

    I gather some (the cheaper ones, or maybe the opposite, the fancy electronic ones?) can hum constantly, which is not what one needs when trying to sleep.

    They are fitted in place of the radiator tap, and I think most work by a thermally expanding ring of rubber or something similar that effectively turns off tha radiator, or slows the water flow, when the room temperature goes above a certain value.
    I was in a Best Western at my last gig with electronic radiator valves connected by wifi. Hummed and clicked like anything. Terrible invention. Tried to remove the darned thing which locked it into full open boil the room mode.

    Leave a comment:


  • OwlHoot
    replied
    Originally posted by Old Greg View Post

    Justifiably so in your case.
    Just a tip OG - Your sig is out of date, because no one is suggesting a second referendum. We've moved on now

    Leave a comment:


  • Old Greg
    replied
    Originally posted by MrMarkyMark View Post
    Why make the post then

    Suggest you get the Pros in, ASAP, sounds like the whole systems seriously chunted and could blow at any time
    And spoil our fun! Are you mad??

    Leave a comment:


  • MrMarkyMark
    replied
    Originally posted by suityou01 View Post
    I didn't ask anything.

    HTH BIKIW
    Why make the post then

    Suggest you get the Pros in, ASAP, sounds like the whole systems seriously chunted and could blow at any time

    Leave a comment:


  • OwlHoot
    replied
    Originally posted by suityou01 View Post

    Thanks Dallas dad. I disagree about the black sludge. It is iron oxide, which is attracted to magnets.
    Red rust (Ferric Oxide, Fe2O3) is not magnetic, but black rust (Ferrous Oxide, FeO) is.

    Leave a comment:


  • Old Greg
    replied
    Originally posted by suityou01 View Post
    Since we moved into Benger towers in 09, we've always had problems with our heating. Elderly Gloworm boiler, and intermittent faults with the radiators. Several plumbers have mentioned the system is on it's last legs, and is heavily sludged. One plumber said that my radiators were only working at 25% efficiency. How do they measure this?

    So I got a quote for power flushing. £450. So I looked into hiring a power flushing unit for the weekend. £160 + VAT + chemicals.

    So I shopped around on ebay and got a second hand one for £141 (winning bid) which came with 2 bottles of Fernox, a bottle of Powerflush cleaner, a bottle of leak fixing stuff (around £80 worth).

    And I've been at it for 3 solid days now. I'm on the penultimate rad.

    I'm going to fit one of these



    So there you have it, sometimes bleeding the radiators isn't enough. Once this is done I expect the contract market to pick up.
    Originally posted by suityou01 View Post
    I didn't ask anything.

    HTH BIKIW
    HTH BIKIW

    Leave a comment:

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