AT+CMEE=2 turns on verbose error messaging (a bit more informative than "ERROR" but not strikingly so).
AT+COPS=1,2,"23433" selects Orange using the numeric option.
AT+COPS=1,1,"ORANGE" didn't work for some reason, gave
+CME error blah blah.
SIM with call barring on, gave another +CME error network unavailable
And when you get someone to unbar the calls, then the thing dials.
At last!
Next problem: find a line that you can dial into from outside, since all lines are not created equal in this tuliphole & the receptionist gets a bit irritated with a modem phoning in.

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