Originally posted by TimberWolf
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What a rip-off
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I crimped the flange (was going to say lip but hey) very slightly by pushing it down on a hard surface, seems to hold it in permanently now. -
Poundland sells reading spectacles for, umm, £1, and the couple of dioptres of + they provide might help with close stuff with wires like you describe, especially once you reach 40.Originally posted by minestrone View PostAt last! I have been of use to someone on this forum.
I got mine last year and have not changed the cheap batteries, it is my desk torch for the "where is that wire meant to go in the back of this" missions and has been used quite a lot.
I actually considered getting two and a pair of 1 quid sun glasses, knocking out the glass and attaching them to the arms(?) with rubber bands.Comment
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I still can't work out what's wrong with it. Everything seems rock solid when I push the glass from the outside or poke the PCB from within. Certainly the the cure works though.Originally posted by minestrone View PostI crimped the flange (was going to say lip but hey) very slightly by pushing it down on a hard surface, seems to hold it in permanently now.Comment
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Originally posted by TimberWolf View PostI still can't work out what's wrong with it. Everything seems rock solid when I push the glass from the outside or poke the PCB from within. Certainly the the cure works though.
When you push the glass, it pushes the LEDs and PCB to make contact with the ridge inside the barrel however there is nothing to keep it in position."A people that elect corrupt politicians, imposters, thieves and traitors are not victims, but accomplices," George OrwellComment
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I think there is an area of unpainted/uniodized aluminium on the inside that the bulb segment must connect with to complete the circuit, I think that area is too small and the connectors shift up and onto a coloured area.Originally posted by TimberWolf View PostI still can't work out what's wrong with it. Everything seems rock solid when I push the glass from the outside or poke the PCB from within. Certainly the the cure works though.
If that is the case then the colouring of the item which they did to improve it has actually ruined it.
I suppose if you got the bulb seciton out and scrubbed the paint off the inside that would do it.Comment
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So one Poundland torch needs:
Reading specs £1
Glue £1
Wet and dry paper £1
Batteries £1
Anything else?"A people that elect corrupt politicians, imposters, thieves and traitors are not victims, but accomplices," George OrwellComment
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A torch for a pound?! Skinflint!Originally posted by TimberWolf View Post
Just tried that, expecting nothing, and it works now! Muchas gracias. I now have a shiny torch and am hopeful that the battery will last ages for camping purposes, because the light output is quite modest for a 3 AAA torch.
I have a wind up LED torch, which can also charge mobiles.
Work in the public sector? Read the IR35 FAQ hereComment
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I honestly do not know how they make some of this stuff, OK it's slave labour at the manufacturing plant and mostly it is crap stuff that I buy for a single job but materials, shipping, distribution, branded stores, UK store staff and making a profit on a pound minus VAT.Comment
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A had some brief success by stuffing some aluminium foil down the shaft, and hoping for the best, and got a bright beam - presumably the brightness the torch should have been from the start. My pushing the lens is meeting with limited less success now and at best results in what I know now to be a weak beam. I'm thinking of putting some solder on the 3 contacts that look as if they are supposed to make contact with the metal body of the tube? But doing so will void the warranty? I might try stuffing some aluminium down the edge first instead, again, near the 3 edge solder contacts. My fault does sound subtly different to Paddy's (no looseness or movement detected), though in the same area.Comment
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