Originally posted by DimPrawn
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Reply to: Help reqd with car problem
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Previously on "Help reqd with car problem"
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I've done my bit for eco, I've traded down from a V12 to a V8.
HTH
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Originally posted by DimPrawnBuy a new car, something expensive and eco unfriendly that belittles permies.
Those who drive huge 4x4s nowadays just look like drug-dealing lowlife (in the towns) and simply don't make any sort of statement in the country.
It's cool to be eco-friendly Prawn!
What subaquatic rock are you living under?
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And just to completely hijack this thread the best bonking vehicle ever was a Series IIa LWB Land Rover...front bench seats or a matteress in the back
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Originally posted by FleetwoodOver the boot???
How unromantic!!
A true gentleman will shag a bird over the bonnet.
hth
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Over the boot???
How unromantic!!
A true gentleman will shag a bird over the bonnet.
hth
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Originally posted by zeitghostI remember a similar fault on a Triumph Spitfire/Vitesse (a pile of tulipe if ever there was one...).
Engine started ok, but stopped as soon as you let the key go.
Turned out to be the ballast resistor to the coil (which is shorted out during starting...).
That's very unlikely to be what's wrong with your car, but hey! I've got to keep my posting averages up.
Ahhh whatever happened to.....
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Well, we'll have to wait and see if he can fix it. I'm still plumping for the starter switch.
threaded in "I've had the same problem and it was the starter switch" mode.
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FFS you are a contractor.
Buy a new car, something expensive and eco unfriendly that belittles permies.
HTH
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Originally posted by DaveBDid a bit of digging and asked a mechanical engineer friend. Came up with this list.
If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad fuel pump or a clogged up carburettor: Service the pump and carburetor. Boarderline DIY.
There may be a vacuum leak: Check and replace vacuum lines as required. Boarderline DIY.
The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. Generally not a DIY job
Idle speed set incorrectly: Set idle speed to specs. DIY.
There may be some type of ignition problem: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs. DIY.
There may be a fault in the engine management system: Check with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. Not a DIY job
The Exhaust Gas recirculation valve may be bad: Replace it. DIY depending on location and type.
The engine may have mechanical problems: Check compression to determine engine condition. DIY with the right tools.
The fuel injectors may be dirty: Clean or replace fuel injectors. Boardeline DIY.
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No but I do have an opening for a man to walk in front of the car with a red flag.
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How quaint. People driving around in cars with carburettors. Does it have a manual choke and split screen windshield? What about a starting handle?
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Originally posted by ControlGThanks, it would be nice if the solution was as simple as changing the plug leads but the problem you describe seems contradictory to mine. Mine starts fine when hot or cold but just will not idle when started from hot. The revs just drop to 0 and the engine cuts out. However, sounds like a quick and cheap job that EVEN I could do myself to see if it has any effect.
Sounds like a dirty carburettor. Do you run the fuel down to red line before filing it up again. If so you may have picked up crap from the bottom of the petrol tank. My car (not a Mazda) does the same thing. Had my man clean the carburettor out and it ran fine again until I ranthe tank nearly empty again.
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