Originally posted by northernladuk
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loft insulation
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Just a standard fine tooth one. You can sandwich the roll between 2 planks of wood to keep the cuts relatively straight, then slide plastic off and unroll directly into place.Comment
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Just chucked a load of top-up mineral stuff made from recycled bottles or something from homebase, think it was 4 quid a big roll.
Made a difference but not huge as there was some already (diminishing returns).
Tried without a mask first time - not a good plan, throat irritated.
With a mask I was sweating like Mike Tyson's prom date, but worth it.
losing it through the windows I reckon, look nice in wood and DG but not a patch on upvc I had in old gaff.Comment
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As I understand it (although this could also be spreading misinformation):
- The funding comes from a government scheme.
- By taking part in the scheme suppliers are awarded carbon credits.
- The suppliers have government set targets to meet before the end of the year.
- If they fall short they are fined, hence the free offer and the deadline of 31st Dec.
Free Insulation - Home Insulation - British Gas
Loft insulation and installation - Offers - npower
Home Insulation from Tesco Home Insulation Service
Home insulation - Save and Create - Sainsbury's EnergyComment
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Originally posted by Contreras View PostWhat strings?
As I understand it (although this could also be spreading misinformation):
- The funding comes from a government scheme.
- By taking part in the scheme suppliers are awarded carbon credits.
- The suppliers have government set targets to meet before the end of the year.
- If they fall short they are fined, hence the free offer and the deadline of 31st Dec.
Free Insulation - Home Insulation - British Gas
Loft insulation and installation - Offers - npower
Home Insulation from Tesco Home Insulation Service
Home insulation - Save and Create - Sainsbury's Energy
One has to meet certain criteria to get it free, e.g. receive benefits.
More than happy to pay that.Comment
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Originally posted by Halo Jones View PostLatest guidance recommends 200 - 270mm of mineral wool insulation, it would have to be a fairly hi spec (and therefore expensive) composite board (rigid board backed by foil, then high density insulation & outer skin) to achieve thermal passivity at <150mm.
What happens is warm air condenses on the membrane and drips down onto the floor joists insulation, so I would like to remove all the insulation from under the roof, top up the floor joists to 270mm, insulate the plasterboard dwarf walls and install ventilation in the soffits and gable walls to turn this void into a "cold space"
If I remove the membrane which is a bit tatty and ripped (it has mineral wool between it & the tiles) do I have to replace it with anything or can I just leave the underneath of the roof tiles open?How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't thinkComment
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Originally posted by Troll View PostHey HJ some advice please....
Where are you geographically, urban, sheltered, etc
How old is the property?
You say dwarf walls: this term confuses me in this context; can you describe better, or have a photo?
The membrane, was that put in at construction or later? What is it made of & how is it fixed?
Are you changing the functionality of the space or do you just want to stop the condensation?
Is the property semi or detached?
What is the roof covering made of? (tile, slate, flat)
What influenced your thought process on venting the gable walls & soffits?Growing old is mandatory
Growing up is optionalComment
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Originally posted by Halo Jones View PostOk some more info please:
Where are you geographically, urban, sheltered, etc
How old is the property?
You say dwarf walls: this term confuses me in this context; can you describe better, or have a photo?
The membrane, was that put in at construction or later? What is it made of & how is it fixed?
Are you changing the functionality of the space or do you just want to stop the condensation?
Is the property semi or detached?
What is the roof covering made of? (tile, slate, flat)
What influenced your thought process on venting the gable walls & soffits?
How old is the property? > Late 1970's trad brick & block construction
You say dwarf walls: this term confuses me in this context; can you describe better, or have a photo? tsk...really!!
The membrane, was that put in at construction or later? What is it made of & how is it fixed? at construction seems to be a tar coated(on one side) paper nailed to roof joists
Are you changing the functionality of the space or do you just want to stop the condensation? use it for storage so want to stop the drips
Is the property semi or detached?.... doesn't every successful contractor live in a 6 bed detached building
What is the roof covering made of? (tile, slate, flat) posh concrete tile
What influenced your thought process on venting the gable walls & soffits?[/QUOTE] drugs and alcohol mainly although everything I've read says venting is goodHow fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't thinkComment
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Originally posted by Troll View PostHey HJ some advice please.... my property is on 3 floors with the top floor being a playroom + extra bedroom & it was built like this so not a conversion. The dwarf walls run both sides of the loft and are timber stud & uninsulated plasterboard, the roof void has insulation beneath the roof covered by a membrane - and some insulation on the floor joists - there is no ventilation in this void & I believe this makes it classed as a "warm space"
What happens is warm air condenses on the membrane and drips down onto the floor joists insulation, so I would like to remove all the insulation from under the roof, top up the floor joists to 270mm, insulate the plasterboard dwarf walls and install ventilation in the soffits and gable walls to turn this void into a "cold space"
If I remove the membrane which is a bit tatty and ripped (it has mineral wool between it & the tiles) do I have to replace it with anything or can I just leave the underneath of the roof tiles open?
Any felt would normally be above the insulation, and if it was modern it would be 'breathable'. Older roofs would not normally have felt ( or other membrane ? ) at rafter level but if properly tiled that wouldn't be an issue in terms of rain getting in.
I would just whack your 270mm in at floor joist level and see if that stops the condensation by decreasing the heat in the roof void. If that doesnt work then think again and maybe put some sort of vents into the void. I'd leave the 'membrane' alone if possible and having ripping that out as your last choice.
The best option would be get someone who knows what they are talking about to take a look in person.Comment
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Originally posted by Malcolm Buggeridge View PostLooking at how much thus is going to cost, I have to wonder whether or not its worth it when my loft space is completely open to that of the adjoining property where they have no insulation at all.
I don't mind putting down some lagging but to have the required thickness would mean I'd have to use loft legs to raise the level of the floor.
Also looked at using insulation boards but they require double thickness combined with 150 mm layer of loft roll.
Then there's the polystyrene beads. Bet its a real bastard to get rid of them if you ever need to.
Anyone know any good insulation materials that are effective at a thickness of <150mm?
I used Mica, a blow rock fill that is fire proof. In another property I used old wool carpet felt that was given free."A people that elect corrupt politicians, imposters, thieves and traitors are not victims, but accomplices," George OrwellComment
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