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I tend to go for simple phones now; the more cameras and other gadgets they seem to have, the worse they are at actually making phone calls! Plus I have a Creative Zen mp3 player.
There are a lot of descent phones out there that can play mp3's and I would suggest that you look at any with an MMC slot so that you can buy a 1gig card or something for it.
I recently got a Nokia 6230i which seems pretty good.
I hate buying phones, I always seem to have to talk to some Spivey wheeler-dealer type salesman who wants to negotiate as though I’m buying a car rather than a £10 phone.